Matsue Castle by daySakura blossomsSenjyuin by daySenjyuin by nightunder a full moonmisty clouds of fragrant pink…along the Tamayu RiverKisuki Sakura Festival 2018Kisuki 2022along the Hii RiverMatsue Castle by night
This year’s Matsue Castle Festival is from March 25th-April 8th (link in Japanese only), during which the castle and its grounds are lit up until 9pm. You can take in the delicate beauty of the sakura blossoms among seasonal lanterns, and there are special performances, live music, and additional events on the weekends.
Situated on a hill, about a 15 minute walk from the castle, is Senjyuin Temple (link in Japanese only) and its iconic, 250-year-old, “weeping” sakura. A tunnel of sakura line the way leading to the temple grounds from which you can enjoy sweeping views of the city and castle.
The Tamatsukuri Onsen district on the south side of Lake Shinji is also host to a Sakura Festival (link in Japanese only) from March 27th to April 19th. Enjoy a picturesque view of sakura along the Tamayu River by day, or illuminated in the evenings from 6-9pm.
About an hour outside of Matsue, are the famous sakura of Unnan City (ranked among the 100 best viewing spots in Japan!). The main event of this year’s Sakura Festival (link in Japanese only) is on April 4th and 5th, near the 2 km-long “cherry blossom tunnel” along the Hii River in Kisuki. However, there are eight(!) other amazing spots in this area with different varieties of sakura that bloom from the end of February through April!
This year Setsubun falls on February 3rd. Setsubun is a traditional part of the Japanese lunar calendar celebrating the start of Spring. As part of a cleansing ritual, fukumame (lucky roasted soy beans) are scattered first outside, then inside one’s home to clear any misfortune from the previous year and welcome in good fortune. The phrase accompanying this varies throughout Japan, but what I learned and practice is : “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi” (demons out, fortune in).
After scattering them, you may also choose to eat as many fukumame as your age to ensure good fortune for the coming year. If you’re well into adulthood, like me, remember to plan ahead so you still have enough leftover to eat😉.
Will there be enough fukumame in these cute packets to equal my age?
Another more modern tradition is to eat ehōmaki (lucky sushi roll). Don’t forget you must eat it without cutting it, in silence, and while facing the lucky direction (ehō). The ehō changes yearly according to the zodiac and indicates the position of the New Year’s god Toshitokujin, who oversees the year’s fortune. 2026 is the year of the fire horse, and the lucky direction is south-southeast. It’s said that if you follow the three rules, the wish you make in your heart while eating it will be granted!
Various goods for celebrating Setsubun, like fukumame, oni masks and ehōmaki, are sold annually in convenience, grocery, and department stores.